Everything you need to know about conditioning

Hello loves hope you are all enjoying life or at least making the most of it. We have been having a back to basics series running on the blog for about three weeks now… you can catch up here  and here

 

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Everything you need to know about conditioning

Hello loves hope you are all enjoying life or at least making the most of it. We have been having a back to basics series running on the blog for about three weeks now… you can catch up here and here

Today we talk about conditioning… which is the first step in reinstating moisture into your hair after cleansing. Conditioners contain moisturizing ingredients that help impart moisture back into your strands.

According to functionality there are three types of conditioners:

  • The rinse out conditioner… Which is basically rinsed out after two to three minutes. It is designed to impart moisture lightly to the hair and may aid in detangling your hair

  • The deep conditioner…. This is either to impart more moisture to the hair or to strengthen the hair (protein deep conditioners). The main aim is to thoroughly nourish your hair, to enhance moisture levels and prevent breakage.

  • The leave in conditioner…. Which as the name suggests is left in the hair as some continuous nourishment or protection to the hair… Think about it like maintenance product.

If we use the analogy of a building the rinse out conditioner would be doing the building skeleton or frame, the deep conditioner would be doing the detailed works (doors, windows, furnishings etc) and the leave in conditioner would be the maintenance works (repairs etc) I hope this makes sense.
With that in mind, let’s talk about a few pointers on each as pertaining to hair care. As a general rule of thumb it is recommended that you deep condition your hair at least twice a month just to make sure that your hair gets the Tender Loving Care it requires.

The rinse out conditioner

Depending on what you want from your hair journey, you may opt for silicone or silicone free conditioners.
Silicones (ingredients that end with -cone -xane – conol) are great sealants. They seal moisture into your hair or out of your hair depending on whether you had moisture or not. Think about it like an umbrella or gloves. If your hands are dry and you wear gloves then go wash dishes…your hands will not get wet. If your hands were wet before you wore the gloves…then your handswill not be dry. I hope it makes sense. That is why silicones are used when you are planning to heat your hair.
Some naturals prefer to omit silicones from their regular regimens.
TIP: GOOD news is that you can get rid of silicones in your hair with a sulphate shampoo. If you don’t mind sulphates then you can use a silicone conditioner.

The Deep Conditioner

These serve for intense moisture infusion and strengthening of the hair. Are of two types:

  • Protein deep conditioners

These contain some protein in them. A good indicator on your ingredients will be anything hydrolized. So hydrolized wheat protein, hydrolized collagen etc. These temporarily fill in the gaps in your hair shaft and thus strengthen your hair. It is recommended that these treatments be used once in a month unless you are dealing with very severe damage. Look out for hydrolysed proteins, examples include:

Hydrolyzed Keratin (from wool)
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

  • Moisturizing deep conditioners

These impart moisture to your hair strands. Useful ingredients to look out for would be ingredients that make your hair easier to comb like :

Amodimethicone (this particular silicone you can wash out of your hair with water)
Behentrimonium Chloride
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Cetrimonium Chloride
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Stearalkonium Chloride

Also as crucial is that you look out for sealing ingredients.
Examples of Sealing Ingredients:

Coconut Oil
Shea Butter
Soybean Oil

Some conditioners contain mineral oil or petroleum but if you are not a fan of these ingredients you can avoid them.

Tips on deep conditioning your hair

  • Use after cleansing your hair.

  • Apply from the ends to the roots of your hair. You may want to avoid your scalp

  • Use it with heat. You may want to use it under a hooded dryer or a steamer or just a plastic bag/cap with body heat

  • Afterwards rinse with cool water to seal your hair’s cuticles.

How do you deep condition your hair? I would love to know.

Ps: we will talk about leave in conditioners in my next post in the series.
Love and love,
Nyake

Everything you need to know about Pre-poo

After having a lengthy discussion about  wash day  …. It is almost impossible to go on without first having the Pre-poo conversation. Of late pre-pooing has come under harsh criticism by a couple of naturals because they argue that it doesn’t make sense now that we have gentler shampoos. I still pre-poo my hair though and In this post we delve into the nitty-gritty of pre-pooing.

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Everything you need to know about Pre-poo

After having a lengthy discussion about wash day …. It is almost impossible to go on without first having the Pre-poo conversation. Of late pre-pooing has come under harsh criticism by a couple of naturals because they argue that it doesn’t make sense now that we have gentler shampoos. I still pre-poo my hair though and In this post we delve into the nitty-gritty of pre-pooing.

Pre-pooing has many benefits…

  • It ensure that your hair keeps in moisture by reducing the amount of stripping a shampoo does to your hair.

  • It nourishes your hair especially when you use natural cold pressed oils

  • Makes the detangling process much easier by softening your hair

As I said earlier, Pre-poo is a fusion of “words”. Pre is a prefix meaning before and poo is short for shampoo. Thus it is a hair treatment applied before shampooing to prevent the hair from being over stripped by the cleansing action of shampoo. It initially began when there weren’t many natural friendly products and shampoo were really stripping. So the natural hair community began to apply oils on their hair before washing it.

WHEN TO PRE-POO

I like to call my Pre-poo treatment my type of hot oil treatment so we will talk about it as a hot oil treatment.
• When your hair is feeling dry.
Dryness of your hair is an indication that you are lacking moisture and that you may need to nourish your hair.

• Before washing your hair
If you want to have your hair feeling moisturized after your wash, pre-pooing is a good step to consider because it will prevent your hair from over drying.

• Before clarifying your hair
Clarifying is when you wash your hair with the aim of getting it squeaky clean to get rid of excess product build up. Pre-pooing is necessary because a clarifying shampoo is super harsh on your hair.

WHAT TO USE

Oils are best to use when you want to Pre-poo. Not only are they natural but they are loaded with nutrients that enrich the hair follicles. There are three oils in particular that are extremely awesome in pre-pooing especially because they double up as super oils for the moisturizing hot oil treatments.

• Avocado oil
• Olive oil
• Coconut oil

These three oils are able to penetrate the hair strands making them have an ability to moisturize and nourish the hair strand

HOW TO DO IT :

• Section your dry hair into four (or small sections)
• Spritz your hair with water /your spray bottle mix
• Smooth the water into your strands using the praying hands method
• Spray water to dampness and not soaking wet.. So that the treatment can be effective
• Slightly warm the oil in a warm water bath for a few minutes then apply oil to your hair and scalp
• Repeat the steps on the rest of your hair
• Cover with a plastic cap and let it sit for about an hour or overnight.

You can now proceed to wash day. I shared with you everything you need to know about wash day right here. Also I shared on how to trim here.

Love and love
Nyake

Let’s talk trims

Hey guys… We have been on a roll… Getting to talk about all these amazing hair practices.
So today we talk about trimming. Before that have you subscribed to my blog yet? If you haven’t yet, please do.
So I have gotten a couple of requests to explain how I trim my hair so here we go. Let’s call this a trim guide for the scissor phobic soul.
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Let's talk trims!!

Hey guys… We have been on a roll… Getting to talk about all these amazing hair practices.

So today we talk about trimming. Before that have you subscribed to my blog yet? If you haven’t yet, please do.

So I have gotten a couple of requests to explain how I trim my hair so here we go. Let’s call this a trim guide for the scissor phobic soul.

WHY TRIM

Trimming is important for hair health. I am sure you have heard that your ends are the oldest part of the hair. As with anything old, the wear and tear of manipulating your hair coupled with the age… Causes it to be damaged. We see that damage in form of single strand knots and tangling of our ends. We trim to get rid of the damaged ends of the hair that can cause further tangling to our hair. Also just to get rid of our dead looking hair.

WHEN TO TRIM

  • When your ends are thinning out.

Because of the damage I explained earlier…your hair tends to thin out towards the end thus showing you the need for a trim

  • When you have damaged ends

Permanent damage from heat or other chemicals may necessitate a trim.

  • When your detangling sessions are becoming too long

Sometimes it takes us so long to detangle our hair because we have so many single strand knots and our combs or fingers just can’t glide through.

HOW OFTEN TO TRIM

The basic hair rule still stands… Trim when you need it. Some people say you need a trim every six to eight weeks but I trim only when I need to. Which is usually in about every three to six months.

HOW TO TRIM
I have trimmed when my hair is both in a straight and also curly state. Both times I use the exact same method.
I twist my hair into small sections of two strand twists and cut of about a quarter to half an inch from the ends.

Another method you can use on straight hair is to glide your fingers down your hair strands and feel for the scraggly ends and that is the point at which you trim your hair.

MUST YOU TRIM?
If your hair isn’t in any type of damage or not having the conditions above, there isn’t a reason to trim it. Remember the key word here is NEED.

Also different things work for different people… So do what works for you.

Do you trim your hair? How often?

Read about everything you need to know about wash day here.

Love and love
Nyake.

Wash day essentials

In today’s post we tackle washing your hair. This is the basic action of removing dirt from dust, product build up from your hair and scalp. Because our scalp is made up of tiny pores from which our hair grows, dirt, excess product and dust can block our pores hindering hair growth.

So how do you know that your hair is due for washing?

• When your regimen says so.
At the beginning of your journey as we said last month, your hair hasn’t yet figured itself out and training your hair in a regimen helps to get it into a routine and to get yourself used to taking care of your hair. I shared a simple routine here that can guide you on when to clean your hair.

• When you have a greasy/dirty feel to your hair
We have all gone through that phase when our hair just felt dirty… not because of the duration between wash days but we had that feeling when we touched our hair. It could be the greasy feel on our hair strands or scalp…itchiness in our protective style or when our hair was visibly dirty. The there, is your hair needing a wash desperately.

• When it has been too long
Sometimes our busy schedules catch up with us and we forget to give our hair and scalp the much needed TLC it requires. It is recommended that we wash our hair between once a week to once a month.

Preparing for a wash

Once you have figured out how often you would like your wash day to be… there are a few things that you need to make your wash successful.

• Pre-poo
This is a treatment that you do to your hair prior to shampooing your hair. Pre-poo comes from two words: pre meaning before and poo which is short for shampoo. In a nutshell this is basically the practice of adding oils to your hair to prevent loss of the hair’s natural oils.

• A sulfate free shampoo

Sulfate free shampoos are best to use to cleanse natural hair or at least better than Sulphur shampoos. They can be pricey, but are a worthwhile investment. In case that cannot fit into your budget, a sulfate shampoo once in a month, with a co-wash in between should be just fine.

• A rinse out conditioner

This will be your first step in remoisturising after cleansing your hair. Sometimes shampoos strip our hair of the moisture and natural oils that it has, thus getting a good conditioner could be your first step in recovering lost moisture. The best conditioners are those without silicone as ingredients(because silicones are sealants and they could easily lock moisture out of your hair strand) and those that have really good slip. Nine of this however are cast in stone, so be sure to get a conditioner that works.

• A cotton tee-shirt
See that material that your towel is made of… that combined with the action of physically drying your hair can damage the hair and lead to excessive tangling of the hair. A better way to dry your hair is to use a cotton tee shirt and wrapping your hair then squeezing the hair gently to get rid of excess water. The aim is not to get your hair excessively dry but rather to leave your hair damp for the next process.

HOW TO DO IT

1. Pre-poo for 30 minutes or overnight . The best oils for Pre-poo are coconut oil, avocado oil and olive oil. These have small enough molecules to penetrate your hair strands. (more information about Pre-poo next month so keep it tuned)

2. Saturate your hair with water… then divide your hair into sections. Ideally, you should wash your hair in twists to avoid excessive tangling.

3. Begin to apply shampoo focusing mainly on your roots because that is the place that needs cleansing the most.

4. Rinse out the shampoo off your hair and apply your conditioner. Some people prefer to detangle hair at this point.

5. Let your conditioner sit for anywhere between 15 minutes to one hour.

6. Rinse it out well.

USEFUL TIPS

• Dilute your shampoo… It will help you to stretch the usability of the product . Also you may realize that your hair doesn’t need all that shampoo that you slap on it.

• Take advantage of wash day to massage your scalp… massages improve blood flow to your scalp.

• You can consider washing your hair in twists… your hair tangles less but you need to really rinse your hair to get the products out of your hair strands.

Have a beautiful wash day… Won’t you?

Wash day essentials

In today’s post we tackle washing your hair. This is the basic action of removing dirt from dust, product build up from your hair and scalp. Because our scalp is made up of tiny pores from which our hair grows, dirt, excess product and dust can block our pores hindering hair growth.

So how do you know that your hair is due for washing?

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